BREAKING NEWS: Fu Manchu has been found hiding underneath the railway arches in Clapham North. Except…it’s not Sax Rohmer’s Chinese criminal mastermind, but south London’s newly-opened late night dim sum and cocktail bar.
With a large painting of the fictional character on the exposed brickwork of the interior as well as framed posters of Fu Manchu titles, the place certainly boasts character (geddit?) But as well as cool artwork, high ceilings and low lighting for ambience, it’s the food and cocktails this venue will be most proud of.
Try the Lin Tang’s Szechuan Sling (named after Fu Manchu’s daughter), which consists of homemade Szechuan pepper shrub, Finalandia mango vodka, yellow chartreuse and mango juice topped with soda water, and the Kiss of Death (named after one of the Fu Manchu films, see what they’ve done here?), which is made from Woodfors reserve bourbon shaken with St. Germain elderflower liqueur, homemade star anise syrup, fresh blackberries and lemon juice covered with ‘Kiss of Death’ foam.
When it comes to the food, guests are really spoilt for choice with nearly 40 different selections on the menu. From the steamed options the Shui Jing Jai Gow (curried vegetable dumpling) is a must, very aromatic on the palate, while the Cha Sui Bao (honey barbecue pork) is sticky, filling and very good. The Ngo Shan Jin Bao (minced beef) wins the fried and baked options, but the Lung Har Gau (lobster, prawn and bamboo shoots in a crystal skin) wins the money. Of the salads, the crab, green mango and papaya is an exquisitely exotic fusion.
Throw in some live DJ sets every Thursday night and this stylish, opium den-looking hideaway underneath some railway arches has become the go-to place in Clapham.