Where to go this week - - by Aimee Sics

REVIEW: OXBO Bankside’s Bottomless Sunday Roast

REVIEW: OXBO Bankside’s Bottomless Sunday Roast IMAGE: Jack Hardy

Here’s an excellent way to jump start your Sunday — try the Sunday roast at OXBO Bankside. Take a generous appetite because the buffet table for starters and desserts are designed to ruin rigorous diets and encourage you to try everything on that table.

At £28 for three courses, the OXBO Roast is quite the steal — and given that the executive chef is Paul Bates who’s impressive CV lists The Beaumont and the Intercontinental Park Lane, there’s unquestionable conviction you’re going to have a decent feed here. The all-day restaurant focuses on British food (unsurprisingly due to its proximity to Borough Market) and delivers excellent cuisine that is sensible and innovative.

Oxbo_4_Jack_Hardy_2015 REVIEW: OXBO Bankside's Bottomless Sunday Roast

IMAGE: Jack Hardy

And gratefully, there’s no fancy-pants, buzzwords featured on the menu: the trend in restaurants that demand multiple-ingredient dishes with complicated names requiring a dictionary on-hand is getting tiresome. More often than not, the most satisfying foods involve the least possible culinary action — which is why we love OXBO, as they deliver precisely that and are the “home of honest, flavoursome food”.

For instance, the starter’s buffet table is replete with plenty of simple, tasty options: think smoked salmon with lemon & capers, peppered beef pastrami, smoked duck breast with lychee salsa, tiger prawns with lime & chilli, potted crab & shrimp, and swordfish ceviche. Simply walk around with your plate, take as little or as much of anything you like, then return to thy table and devour.

OXBO-Roast1 REVIEW: OXBO Bankside's Bottomless Sunday Roast

IMAGE: Jack Hardy

As tempting as it is to return to said buffet and sample what you couldn’t fit on your plate in the first round, it’s best to resist temptation as there are still two courses to go. Mains are ordered with the wait staff and delivered in a well-timed manner, i.e. enough time to settle from starters and not leap up again to get the tuna sashimi you missed. Ah, next time.

However, you’re distracted nonetheless because if you’ve ordered the “Roast sirloin of Gloucestershire beef with Yorkshire pudding”, you’re going to be one happy-camper. If there was an Oscar for crispiest potatoes, most tender beef and the most gloriously, puffed-up Yorkshire pudding, it would have to be awarded to OXBO. Darn right, deee-licious. *applause*

Alternatively, those who have opted for the “Newhaven and South coast fish casserole” will be just as chipper: served in a tomato and red onion sauce, it’s as brilliant and flavoursome as the ingredients list.

By this stage, you’re loosening the belt and wondering if the staff here are part of your grandmother’s army: such an insane amount of food and empty plates are their nemesis.

The generosity of these buffets is a little too good to be true: it’s like having unfettered and endless access to all your favourite things. And everyone loves a little pudding here and there, so go on, stand up and just have a browse over the selection, no commitment necessary. *smirk*

OXBO’s dessert selection offers a solid variety of the classics, as well as a selection of cheese for those with a preference to end their meal in true French style. They’re all small bites, so it’s possible to sample a few, but if you’re really pushing the trousers out, opt for the almond and caramel fudge cake, the mini Eton mess or the baby lemon meringue pies.

You might need a whole week to recover from your zealous attempt to conquer the Sunday roast here, albeit there’s no negative side to this. This yields just the right amount of time to take it on again because the vibrant eatery is serving breakfast, lunch and dinner 7 days a week — and the menu certainly deserves multiple visits.

OXBO Bankside serves a Sunday Roast between 12-4pm

The OXBO Sunday Roast is £28 and includes a three course meal; the Bottomless Sunday Roast is £40 and includes a three course meal and unlimited Prosecco for two hours

Hilton London Bankside, 2-8 Great Suffolk Street, London SE1 0UG

 

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